Showing posts with label London Collections: Men. Show all posts
Showing posts with label London Collections: Men. Show all posts

Friday, 17 June 2016

My London Collections: Men SS 2017 Round Up!

There's just so many clothes in the world to choose from I find. Every London fashion season I endeavour to go and see some shows and as London Cllections:Men SS 2017 has just had its gamut of presentations and wot not I had a whizz around supporting what I could. Here in London we're known for our unique take on style with often quirky ensembles on the catwalk. We're also known for our tip top craftsmanship, cut of cloth and traditional tailoring.

So, with much interest I gate crashed the Topman show (I'm a bit useless at organising myself at times). This is a sort of showcase collection, not sure if much of it gets into the stores tbh. They did a sort of seaside theme referencing a nostalgic trip to Margate - and other resorts which have become somewhat of a trend to upping sticks and moving to. It was cute take and I noticed a return of the longer length Teddy Boy drape jacket which I liked. 

I always go to the MAN show, (no actual physical ticket again), and this was a treat! Fantastic installation from Tony Hornecker upon arrival at show space Ambika 3. Loads of mattresses piled high with models slumped against this haphazard heap dressed in flowing blue denim trews teamed with cotton drill shirts who then wheeled the whole thing off. Who was the designer? 

I was watching out for Charles Jeffrey's 3rd MAN catwalk show and once again he came up with the sort of stuff I live for. He said to me something about 'drunken tailoring' a while ago. Actually this wasn't so drunken, just a bit slightly tipsy I'd say because the tailoring was all very fluid feeling, fitted and swishy very good indeed. Models walked in Dr Marten customised block heeled hoofs and then these great clodhoppers of wooden platform shoes scraped their way down the rose petal and salt strewn catwalk to quite an abstract soundtrack of music. Clothes wise from the beginning the tipsy tailored looks progressed with knitwear laced into abstract jumpers, those sort of trousers we used to call a 'peg', rolled up and a sweatpant ensemble with a fully fitted corset. It's all very gawd er, yeah, can I say this? Yeah why not, unisex... A real dressing up box of a show which ended with a floor length blue trapeze line coat topped off with a big old crystallised looking head piece. 

I then managed to cage a lift over to 180 The Strand (show spaces were kind of a rigmarole to get to this season) for the Bobby Abbley show... Oh gawd no physical ticket again! Bobby is hooked on these Disney films, Alladin was his theme and as always he brought an element of fun and optimism to the equation. Using neoprene, sequins, slogans and bold shapes it was sexy and you walked away smiling. We like that!

Okay what next? Oh yeah in between all that I somehow went to the Barbour presentation which actually quite fascinating as I recently explained to Ludo at Sabrinas house the other night. They had the original battered Barbours pinned up with text explaining this and that while the models wore the updated versions. I found it quite informative and wanted to touch the originals as did everyone else.

Blimey then, I crammed a lot in, back to Baker Street where I discretely slid in for Craig Greens show. Layers and layers of signature quilting delicately washed out and strung together formed the backbone of this collection but it was the elements of tailoring that caught my eye at the onset of his show. Very nice indeed. 

Back up to the Strand space and after we went for a lemonade top entered the world of Henry Hollands 90s rave inspired collection. It was great the way you passed through 3 rooms, the first as though you were entering a club then the second where a DJ was banging out the tunes then finally ducking through a curtain you entered the presentation. Boys very casual and chatting to us, we liked that as they happily posed for pictures. Some great pieces here, a t-shirt with nipple rings. Embroidered denim, sweats emblazoned with smiley motifs and oh even some pearl button appliqué. 
    Henry Hollands rave boys

We then went to see the floating jewellery and installation of Alan Crochetti, which very cleverly William Farr had conceived. Alan was so cute getting those faux rocks spinning just right he even did a little bit of filming for me!

Anyway oh yeah, the Fashion East presentations taking place in a disused shop space in Charlotte Street was a total fave. (And my physical ticket arrived in the nick of time!) In the basement the Rottingdean Bazaar got me all ooing and ahhing with their crammed in corner spilling out with ideas. They do these badges - Badge Taste they're called on Instagram, then they had these t-shirts, top and sweat tops that they'd somehow embossed with actual things like ecru panty hose and fag ends pressed onto. They've done the same thing with real actual flowers too. There was an embellished  chair and lining a wall panel these clocks with fag ends in place of the numbers, yeah I definitely wanted one of those! 
Got to mention they had some delish Bloody Mary's on the go and some very delish artisanal cheese and chutney buns from A Little of What You Fancy, the restaurant on Kingsland Road. I took some for my mum to sample much to her delight. 
    Rottingdean Bazaar at Fashion East

Here we go again, running across town in the pouring rain back to 180 The Strand I got the number 1 bus this time and with an actual ticket sat down for Lou Daltons show. She's so sweet inviting me and this was a very well thought out collection of spot on tailoring, fabric and cut. Looked very chic. A spot of tangerine colourfulness accenting her colour palette the whole thing was so what the modern man wants to wear, and a few pieces us girls wouldn't mind as well!

I didn't get to go and see the Sibling show but it looked a riot online, hot boys and girls  (they've combined their men's show with their womenswear I case you didn't know) really fantastic graphic knits and shapes in primary colours, it all looks really fresh and optimistic which in these times is what we really need quite frankly! 

And I didn't get to see Christopher Shannon's show this season either, what a flake I am, anyway he's hit the nail on the head with his fab take on hashtag slogans I must say.


Thursday, 15 January 2015

Some favourite moments from London Collections:Men A/W 2015

Lovely time running around LC:M last weekend, here's a few of my best moments...


First up MAN show and Liam Hodges, we're in love with his patches which are a recurring theme and pop up in inventive ways. Slogans and sandwich boards featured.
Here's Owen modeling for Liam he usually makes music btw.

Slogans from Liam Hodges
Quick run round the corner to Victoria House in Bloomsbury to have a look at what Kit Neale is up to this season. This was his debut catwalk show, he usually does a presentation. Lot's of fun playing with ideas of childhood toys as inspiration.
Plus a bit of Andrew Logan jewelry.

Kit Neales boys
Alas and woe I never made it to Lou Dalton's show, it was at 10am on Saturday morning, but as ever Lou always impresses me. What's it always being called? Unstructured tailoring... it's more than that though.
Looking handsome at Lou Dalton
The Sibling team, that's Joe, Sid and Cozette went all pink with a fantastic show. We all left smiling, beautiful knits, lot's of attitude. A sense of rebellion in the happiest of ways.

Everything from Sibling
Next up and my beloved James Long. James worked a relaxed tone with bits hanging off, wrapped up and ready to go plus some fabulous prints from artist James Davison... loved! Oh and there's some polo necks peeking through. Love a polo neck.

James Long illustrated
A dash round to Fashion East... Omg Grace Wales Bonner was my fave. Ebonics was her title theme. She presented a group of jeweled up boys dressed rather luxuriantly I must say. Inspired by 70's decadence, poetics and Harlem Renaissance. Right up my street, camp!

Everythings for Real

Boy beauty at Wales Bonner


I didn't get to see Christopher Shannon this season but I wish I had... that man is so clever. Look at his take on 'trash culture'. 
Christopher Shannon's great knit




Thursday, 26 June 2014

AT LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN SS2015

This season London's menswear fashion week was pretty hectic, it's a three day event and we're into S/S 2015... what will you be wearing this time next year! London Collections: Men

Sibling

Martine Rose at Fashion East

Christopher Shannon

Nasir Mazhar

Cottweiler

Craig Green

Alan Crocetti at Fashion East

Kit Neale

Sibling

Astrid Anderson

Sexy 'Jesus' Sandles at James Long

 Edward Crutchley at Fashion East

Moschino

Nicomede Talavera at MAN
Moschino