Thursday, 7 March 2013

Michael & Gerlinde's World...

Meeting up with Michael Costiff is certainly eye opening, I first met Michael, who originally came from Grindleford in Derbyshire and Gerlinde who arrived in London from Regensburg, Germany in the late 70's. Michael and Gerlinde met in the early 70's and became very much part of the London scene with their industrious and seemingly never ending enthusiasm for exploring a myriad of creative outlets. Michael, a photographer, film maker and artist and Gerlinde a style icon with an eye for detail. Initially they ran a cafe in the Chelsea Antique Market and later a concession in Antiquarius on London's Kings Road which specialized in antique jewelry. By the 80's they cast their net further afield, Michael going on to design shop and club interiors, they traveled to New York and Rio which became a second home. In the late 80's they opened the shop 'World' situated in Litchfield Street off Cambridge Circus, I became a part time shop girl there. Perfect for their ever increasing love of traveling and collection of artifacts the shop was full of curios they had amassed along the way. African beaded neckpieces, Brazilian feather headdresses jostled with the latest fake gold jewelry and clothing from NYC's 14th St and the dancing figures of graffiti artist Keith Haring. Michael produced his own line of 'World' t-shirts, the place was a treasure trove reflecting the interesting life they led. They then went on to open a club night and 'Kinky Gerlinky' was born. 

'Michael & Gerlinde's World' is the long awaited book which is the culmination of a series of scrapbooks they regularly updated, it charts their and those around them early day's in London, to travels afar and through to going's on in the current day. 

Michael Costiff with the book.

Sadly Gerlinde is no longer with us, she died suddenly in 1994 but left behind a legacy of style, her presence always caused a stir, her favorite designer was undoubtedly Westwood and she became an avid collector amassing an enviable wardrobe. She also favored the corset's of Pearl and the featured plumes and carnival costumes of Rio which she put together with a great deal of panache. 

Pages from the book, Gerlinde (left)... Michael modeling (right)
   
Lucky enough to have been able to look through this book recently, I carefully turned every page which brought back a stream of fabulous memories back to life... it's crammed with previously unpublished ephemera from flyers to an actual bus ticket from the 70's, various newspaper clippings, membership cards and photographs and film stills (taken by Michael himself) of personalities, close friends and scenes - witness close friend Divine larking around, parades - see Rio Carnival in all it's glory. Charting seminal moments from the past 4 decades the hand written explanation's of who and where and when they are give the book a sense of how personal this book is and it's touching that Michael has been able to share his life with a wider audience.

If you were there then 'Michael & Gerlinde's World' will, like me, stir up all sorts of emotions, if you weren't there then you need to see this book and get a sense what life was like then and how relevant the timeline of this book is in the present and into future...

Michael currently owns a concession in Dover Street Market, London and continues to design and create. He will be signing his book at Dover Street Market Ginza in Tokyo on the 16th March. A planned book launch in London's Dover Street store where he will be taking over the windows from the 28th March with a book launch party planned for the 15th April.

World Archive at the Dover Street Market





Tuesday, 26 February 2013

The Only Inside Fashion Info On That Bowie Video

It came out today, the latest Bowie track 'The Stars (Are Out Tonight)' featuring an illustrious cast including actress, muse and style icon Tilda Swinton...

Writer and stylist to Tilda, Jerry Stafford did the fashion coordination for the entire video. As one of my best friends I was thrilled to with the result... Click on Charlie Porter for a full report who was wearing what and when. Meanwhile...



charlieporter.thereal.ms/stories/8989 

Sunday, 17 February 2013

KNIT WATCH...

Obviously I can't start knit watch without the Sibling knit wear team Sid, Joe and Cozette, who have been blazing a trail for the past few years producing collections solely in the knit vein. For the past couple of seasons I've been on the hand knit team clacking away with the chunky knits but I've noticed a resurgence of knit in abundance so here I am on 'knit watch'...

Sibling mens A/W 2013

Sister by Sibling A/W 2013









Floating round fashion week this season I've seen more than a few inspirational knit pieces... Milliner Stephen Jones has added cute hand knitted beanies to this seasons range.

Stephen Jones A/W 2013


A favorite designer focusing in on knit is James Long... look at this fabulous 'Divine' inspired knit!

James Long A/W 2013

Long's ladies looks always incorporate a bit of the knit. Gorgeous navy ensembles from his presentation this season, loved.

James Long A/W 2013

Louise Grays sensational colour clashing knits...

Louise Gray A/W 2013

Sid Bryans (Sibling) chunky knit beanies for Giles Deacon...

Giles A/W 2013

Nice, Jonathan Saunders, a sweater for a lady...

Jonathan Saunders A/W 2013

Henry Holland's - House of Holland swirly numbers...

House of Holland A/W 2013

Finally the super talented Lucas Nascimento who presented a debut show at the Tate Tanks this season, yes this is knit wear...


Lucas Nascimento A/W 2013

TBC...

Friday, 15 February 2013

LONDON FASHION WEEK A/W 2013


This season London Fashion Week brings a whole host of style joys... as usual I'm looking forward to glimpsing the future of fashion so I'm reporting for iD Online for a few of my favorites... 

SAT 16th
House of Holland - Henry Holland has gone from strength to strength. This season Dj Mark Moore will be supplying the catwalk music...


Pam Hogg - Our La Hogg makes those sexy jump suits. She's at the forefront of the 'body con' revolution and continues to turn it out with her high drama creations. 

MON 18th
Louise Gray - Louise goes for colour and print in a big way. Her definitive style always raises a smile and always makes you look twice.



TUES 19th
Meadham Kirchhoff - An all time fave, last season saw Ed Meadham and Ben Kirchhoff get us all dressed up in flounces and frills. This season who knows...

Go to iD Online for full reports of London Fashion Week from our dedicated team... 



Wednesday, 6 February 2013

BLITZ As Seen in BLITZ: Fashioning '80s Style

Cover 'Scarlett'

In the dot to dot of 80's cult magazines Blitz filled the abyss left between iD and The Face, Iain R. Webb being the fashion editor from 1982-87. It ran from 1980-91 and I've been lucky enough to get a sneak peak between the pages of this forthcoming book of seminal moments in fashion history. This is a recollection placed firmly in the now, let me explain further... there's a timeless quality to Iain's work, I really feel these portraits could have been taken in any decade after the 80's and it's fascinating to think that's when they were first seen.

Mark Moore (2nd right)

The cast list includes Mark Moore, Boy George, Cerith Wyn Evans, Pam Hogg, Stephen Jones, Rifat Ozbek, Body Map, Nick Knight, Anna Piaggi, Judy Blame and many more familiar faces and innovators. With an in depth dialogue to accompany pictorial work it's out in April 2013.

Blitz magazine

Talk in Bath with Iain R Webb April 17th 

Monday, 28 January 2013

Juergen Teller on family, personal style and taking pictures...


Juergen Teller's got a show, as if you didn't know, it's at the ICA in London entitled 'Woo!' until the 17th March. When I got to interview him for GQ Style he revealed a spontaneity that really is a key element in his artistic work and something he carries into his everyday life... 
'I thought I should be a photographic assistant, I came in '86 my english was so poor, the only people who would actually see me were Mark Lebon and Nick Knight, everyone else said fuck off, they were both so sweet and then there was Ray Petri, I did my first Arena shoot '87- '88. I had this really weird hair, bits in a knot and a bit longer and Ray said 'Cut it off'. I was really impressed with these people... with Ray and Mark.  

Smoking Cat (Woo! at ICA)

The pyjama phase... they were from my grandfather, soft comfy. The cap, yes, I went to Romania, I always had it on and then I shaved my head. It was a very exciting time, it was all west London, the east didn't exist, it was super exciting... then I met Judy Blame and then Zoe Bedeaux. My style's all about comfort, it's always about comfort. 

Artist Cerith Wyn Evans (Woo! at ICA)

The shorts came when I did an advertising job with Marc Jacobs and Marc said to me 'Wouldn't it be great to use Charlotte Rampling for Marc Jacobs women's wear?', and I said, 'She's not going to do it.' To swing it I thought maybe if I'm going to be the male she would find it more interesting. When got there I didn't think about the clothes and I'm far too fat, I'm not going to fit anything. There were a pair of silver shorts, so the next day I came getting nervous...  'You look ridiculous what the fuck is this...' she said, 'How do you see this?' I just wanted to kiss her fondle her breasts... She got a cigarillo out and said 'Ok lets start, I'll tell you when to stop', and that's when the shorts started and the book started. I did this book after the ads came out and thought, 'What the fuck do I do with these shorts (shots)?' So for half a year I went to Paris and did half naked shots. That's I made this book and Sadie [Coles] helped me, directors pose... 


Juergen with his and Sadies son Ed

I thought it would be a really nice thing to get married at my mums place in Germany, Sadie's sister was a witness, and Lola said 'Sadie, what are you going to wear?', because she always wears trousers, and she said, 'Good you pointing it out, well, I'm not going to wear a dress', and Lola said 'I'd like you to wear the Arsenal outfit', so I wore the away kit and she [Sadie] wore the home kit, the Arsenal strip...  We went to the register office did a polaroid, had a Japanese meal, and went to play football, that was it.'


Wednesday, 23 January 2013

'Bowie Nights at Billy's Club, London 1978' Nicola Tyson at Sadie Coles HQ

Artist Nicola Tyson (known for her figurative paintings) unearthed her snappy snaps and low and behold a slice of social history has emerged. 'Bowie Nights at Billy's Club, London 1978' is the title of the exhibition at Sadie Coles HQ gallery on until the 25th February, 2013. I was mesmerized when Nicola first showed me these previously unseen moments she recorded whilst studying at college of a night we all looked forward to going to. These spontaneous and shadowy images look like they might have happened yesterday and strangely enough in my mind it felt like yesterday when I first saw them the truth be known.

Marilyn, me and Boy George 1978

This was the year after the 'punk' scene dissipated and the beginnings of what became the 'new romantic' era emerged. This Bowie night set the cornerstones of the celebrated 'Blitz' night often talked about and referenced. Anyway, go and have a look and be prepared to be amused and fascinated by Nicola Tyson's perfectly formed account.

Jeremy Healy, Andy Polaris, unknown



By 1978 a new scene was needed to fill the 
vacuum left after Punk went mainstream  
and “Bowie Night” was a start. Roxy Music 
and David Bowie had influenced the darkly 
flamboyant aspects of the London punk 
scene, and so in opposition to the dumb 
monochrome cynicism of mainstream Punk, 
each Tuesday anything went at Billy’s, the 
more theatrical the better. 

                                                              Nicola Tyson, 2012.


www.sadiecoles.com

Nicola Tyson