Princess Julia X Bernstock Speirs (3rd -18th November)

Launch of ‘When in Doubt Go Out’: a series of paintings by Princess Julia in collaboration with milliners Bernstock Speirs from Thursday 3rd November 2016.

Known as a DJ, writer and style icon, Princess Julia explores further her artistic flair for paint... 'Delving into my watercolour palette I have painted interpretative portraits of some familiar faces all wearing the latest collection from Bernstock Speirs.'

The exhibition continues until 18^th November 2016

All works are for sale.

                                       

     bernstockspeirs.com

Good taste, bad taste or no taste at all!? Reading and Q&A at Soho House with Pindrop

Where do you draw the line? I'll be doing a little monologue reading and Q&A in conjunction with Pindrop studios next Wednesday 21st September at the Soho House and it's all about style, seeing as we've just had London Fashion Week. I'll be giving you a glimpse into my background and philosophising about how my life has led me to some entriquing style conundrums in the present day. 

http://pindropstudio.com/narrator/princess-julia/

My London Collections: Men SS 2017 Round Up!

There's just so many clothes in the world to choose from I find. Every London fashion season I endeavour to go and see some shows and as London Cllections:Men SS 2017 has just had its gamut of presentations and wot not I had a whizz around supporting what I could. Here in London we're known for our unique take on style with often quirky ensembles on the catwalk. We're also known for our tip top craftsmanship, cut of cloth and traditional tailoring.

So, with much interest I gate crashed the Topman show (I'm a bit useless at organising myself at times). This is a sort of showcase collection, not sure if much of it gets into the stores tbh. They did a sort of seaside theme referencing a nostalgic trip to Margate - and other resorts which have become somewhat of a trend to upping sticks and moving to. It was cute take and I noticed a return of the longer length Teddy Boy drape jacket which I liked. 

I always go to the MAN show, (no actual physical ticket again), and this was a treat! Fantastic installation from Tony Hornecker upon arrival at show space Ambika 3. Loads of mattresses piled high with models slumped against this haphazard heap dressed in flowing blue denim trews teamed with cotton drill shirts who then wheeled the whole thing off. Who was the designer? 

I was watching out for Charles Jeffrey's 3rd MAN catwalk show and once again he came up with the sort of stuff I live for. He said to me something about 'drunken tailoring' a while ago. Actually this wasn't so drunken, just a bit slightly tipsy I'd say because the tailoring was all very fluid feeling, fitted and swishy very good indeed. Models walked in Dr Marten customised block heeled hoofs and then these great clodhoppers of wooden platform shoes scraped their way down the rose petal and salt strewn catwalk to quite an abstract soundtrack of music. Clothes wise from the beginning the tipsy tailored looks progressed with knitwear laced into abstract jumpers, those sort of trousers we used to call a 'peg', rolled up and a sweatpant ensemble with a fully fitted corset. It's all very gawd er, yeah, can I say this? Yeah why not, unisex... A real dressing up box of a show which ended with a floor length blue trapeze line coat topped off with a big old crystallised looking head piece. 

I then managed to cage a lift over to 180 The Strand (show spaces were kind of a rigmarole to get to this season) for the Bobby Abbley show... Oh gawd no physical ticket again! Bobby is hooked on these Disney films, Alladin was his theme and as always he brought an element of fun and optimism to the equation. Using neoprene, sequins, slogans and bold shapes it was sexy and you walked away smiling. We like that!

Okay what next? Oh yeah in between all that I somehow went to the Barbour presentation which actually quite fascinating as I recently explained to Ludo at Sabrinas house the other night. They had the original battered Barbours pinned up with text explaining this and that while the models wore the updated versions. I found it quite informative and wanted to touch the originals as did everyone else.

Blimey then, I crammed a lot in, back to Baker Street where I discretely slid in for Craig Greens show. Layers and layers of signature quilting delicately washed out and strung together formed the backbone of this collection but it was the elements of tailoring that caught my eye at the onset of his show. Very nice indeed. 

Back up to the Strand space and after we went for a lemonade top entered the world of Henry Hollands 90s rave inspired collection. It was great the way you passed through 3 rooms, the first as though you were entering a club then the second where a DJ was banging out the tunes then finally ducking through a curtain you entered the presentation. Boys very casual and chatting to us, we liked that as they happily posed for pictures. Some great pieces here, a t-shirt with nipple rings. Embroidered denim, sweats emblazoned with smiley motifs and oh even some pearl button appliqué. 

    Henry Hollands rave boys

We then went to see the floating jewellery and installation of Alan Crochetti, which very cleverly William Farr had conceived. Alan was so cute getting those faux rocks spinning just right he even did a little bit of filming for me!

Anyway oh yeah, the Fashion East presentations taking place in a disused shop space in Charlotte Street was a total fave. (And my physical ticket arrived in the nick of time!) In the basement the Rottingdean Bazaar got me all ooing and ahhing with their crammed in corner spilling out with ideas. They do these badges - Badge Taste they're called on Instagram, then they had these t-shirts, top and sweat tops that they'd somehow embossed with actual things like ecru panty hose and fag ends pressed onto. They've done the same thing with real actual flowers too. There was an embellished  chair and lining a wall panel these clocks with fag ends in place of the numbers, yeah I definitely wanted one of those! 

Got to mention they had some delish Bloody Mary's on the go and some very delish artisanal cheese and chutney buns from A Little of What You Fancy, the restaurant on Kingsland Road. I took some for my mum to sample much to her delight. 

    Rottingdean Bazaar at Fashion East

Here we go again, running across town in the pouring rain back to 180 The Strand I got the number 1 bus this time and with an actual ticket sat down for Lou Daltons show. She's so sweet inviting me and this was a very well thought out collection of spot on tailoring, fabric and cut. Looked very chic. A spot of tangerine colourfulness accenting her colour palette the whole thing was so what the modern man wants to wear, and a few pieces us girls wouldn't mind as well!

I didn't get to go and see the Sibling show but it looked a riot online, hot boys and girls  (they've combined their men's show with their womenswear I case you didn't know) really fantastic graphic knits and shapes in primary colours, it all looks really fresh and optimistic which in these times is what we really need quite frankly! 

And I didn't get to see Christopher Shannon's show this season either, what a flake I am, anyway he's hit the nail on the head with his fab take on hashtag slogans I must say.

MAY 2016 TALKS & MORE TALKS!

Last May I went to a number of talks. I've outdone myself with panel discussions, presentations and interviews.

On Monday 16th May I checked into Fashion Street (where else!) just off Brick Lane and the Isituto Marangoni  where said fashion journalist Jessica Bumpus and international milliner, dear friend and ex flatmate  Stephen Jones held court at this rather chic Italian fashion college. Stephen has a coach load of fantastic stories to reveal, I could listen to him all night tbh. Loved hearing about his friendship with Anna Piaggi who often asked for hats at a moments notice. I credit Stephen with putting hats back on the map in the late 70s after studying fashion at St Martins when it soon became clear his forte lay in the realm of head gear. He diligently established himself as he went about reinventing jaunty angles throughout the 80s, 90s, 00s and up to the present day where he's never been busier. 

On Tuesday 20th I managed to gate crash the legendary mime, dance choreographer Linsay Kemp’s evening soirée at the Miranda in the basement of Shoreditch’s Ace Hotel. Omg! This was too much. Interviewed by Marc Almond and biographer Nicholas Pegg the 2 hour presentation consisted of rare archive film and performance but it was Lindsay Kemp’s honest accounts that had us howling with laughter as he recanted a past so astounding we audibly gasped! This talk centred around his work with David Bowie at the beginning of his career in the late 60s and 70s, how they met and their love affair. Lindsay delivered a colourful and camp line of repartee in the most adorable way. His legacy of visionary moments is as relevant today as it was back then I'm pleased to say. 

Archive photo of Lindsey Kemp by Joe Gaffney

This next excursion is a regular occurrence on my ‘go to’ calendar. Not strictly a talk as such but a presentation and one not to be missed. It's the MAC Cosmetics trend report hosted by the super charismatic and talented make up artist Terry Barber. That was on Wednesday 18th. I just can't get enough of Terry explaining the inspirations behind the looks we see on catwalks the world over. Each season Terry oversees the moods of face painting from the pallet of MAC for the season ahead. So we're looking at A/W 2016… MAC do a lot of shows and it's fascinating the way designers work with makeup artists to create a look. Guesting the brilliant Marion Newman the mother of all nail technicians. Her inventive take on nail art is a continual reinvention. Top tip... It's all about long nails and an added back of the nail embellishment this season! 

Magazine Man About Town hosted a fascinating glimpse into the archive work of punk maverick Malcom McClaren at the ICA on Friday 20th. MAT have created a beautiful spread within its pages of the latest issue with photography by Alasdair McLellan of McClaren and Westwoods early 80s collections before they went their separate ways. As the keeper of Malcom’s intellectual archive Young Kim (his partner of 12 years up until his death) introduced a series of monologues covering the continual reinvention of the Kings Road shop from Let It Rock into Sex, Seditionaires and finally Worlds End. Joining Young on the panel editor of Man About Town Ben Reardon, writer & archivist Paul Gorman and last minute addition architect Simon Withers (who replaced designer and archivist Kim Jones who as director of the ICA Gregor Muir explained was unable to make it). Simon worked closely with Mclaren and Westwood in the early 80s as they pioneered their fashion concepts. His insightful take added the missing link in the story of how their work was perceived at the time, an insiders view so to speak. Decades later we are still looking at these collections which are as relevant today as they were back then with a sense of discovery. 

A recent trip to Helsinki to DJ for a runaway show after party which took place on an actual flight runway in association with Finnair took me the next day to a great talk at Helsinki arts college on 25th May. An Aalto Fashion seminar with a panel consisting of A Magazine editor Dan Thawley, stylist and style icon Lotta Volkova, artist and model Paul Hemeline, Lou Stoppard who writes and chairs talks at ShowStudio, fashion designer Thomas Tait and book lady Lucy Moore director from Claire De Rouen. I always find chats about process fascinating and this lot certainly go about their business with an open eye within their respective areas. The fact that not only do their disciplines cross over and compliment each other but also create new platforms on how we choose to express ourselves. 

Picking out things over fashion week AW 2016

Most days I spend a couple of hours scrolling down my social network feeds clicking on likes and linking up to the stories that fascinate me, obsess me and that are just amusing. I fill my brain with stuff, so much stuff I never knew existed, loads of stuff I do know, some I don't or have forgotten about and the tales of people's lives and my own in a never ending trawl of notes in the form of imagery, film and word. I heart the things that grab my attention on a whim, I leave short amusing comments and sometimes impart a modicum of information or view point. I just do what everybody else does and while the hours away looking and posting. I do go out into the real world and if the mood takes me, whipping out my phone and recording the moment. I’m always obsessed with style and fashion, the people who make it, the people who wear it and the people who write about it. 

London Fashion week is where I'm at and this season I helped out at Sibling with some big hand knits, it's sort of like a bit of therapy nipping up their East London studio and knitting away. I went to see Ryan Lo who I adore, Claire Barrow's art installation at the ICA. Popped by Peter Jensen who also did an presentation at the ICA. I took my place at Holly Fulton, Ashley Williams and Gareth Pugh... And of course Fashion East with newcomer Mimi Wade. I basically just go to my friends shows though. Either I'm in the supporting role or iD mag ask me to write a short review, which I love doing. I'm the sort who likes things on the basis of ‘would I wear it?’, yes that old chestnut, I just can't help myself, I pick out things I want and sometimes pick out things for friends, then I take a picture for reference or to post. 

Sibling... Yeah I knitted those humongous cowls.

Part of Claire Barrows vitrine installation at the ICA

Mimi Wade at Fashion East

Last month I learned a sector of the fashion world are saying that something has to give on the fashion calendar, seasonal showing dates and whatnot. I'm wondering if it will change? What do you think? Also I'm seeing the continuation of clothes for shows speeding down the catwalks… BIG showstoppers designed to wow us. Who wears these creations in real life? I know a few that would, but really we all know that designers like to throw a few bits of imaginative pieces in to up the anti and grab some choice moments on our news feeds as well as column inches and well keep us interested in the craft of dressing I love to pursue… And maybe you do too.

Com Des Garçon pile it on.

In London we talk endlessly about ‘street style’ but what is that nowadays? I'll leave you to ponder that one. In Milan there's a sense of business to fashion with an innate Italian chicness to consider, even when it's slightly wacky. In Paris it's all about the certain craft of cut and adornment at its core. New York considers the big sell but everywhere has taken to conceptualism to fashion highs. 

In the space of mere seasons Vetements is where our attentions lie right now what with the Balmain post of designer Vetements collective. What did you think of the drag coming down the catwalk? I have to say I was rather taken with some it and amused with other pieces of rather frumpy looking ensembles. Think they might have overlooked the diversity card though, there's a lot of chit chat online about the casting.

I saw a lot of things I wanted this a/w 2016 season I wanted I must say. I also thought some things were, dare I say it, designed with me in mind. I’ve been known to feature on a mood board or two, I’m not just making that up, I've actually seen it! This Gucci fella Alassandro do dah, bet I'm on his, I don't know him but every collection I've seen has a touch of the PJ’s to it. Where's my drag? What about Marc Jacobs, Margiela and Mui Mui, yeah I must be on their mood boards as well. I'm expecting a few care packages then!

    A bit of Margiela for you.

Oh we're most taken with the old (Yves) St. Laurent this season in my camp circles! Just look at what designer Hedi Slimaine has been rummaging around in… None other than the bottom drawer of an 80s disco fan and the drag queens of Shoreditch. Girl's are a bit on thin side but that's Hedi innit, he likes a very slender model and this lot looked stunning as they wobbled around.

   Campness over at Hedi Slimaine's St. Laurent drag box

Finally the king of fashion who's longevity never ceases to amaze me, good old Karl (Lagerfield), a mesmerising character, who saw Suzy Menkes having a dance with him on Instagram? Aside from that he's still got all the enthusiasm for his craft after decades of fashioneering, for that I salute you! 

Princess Julia X Space NK S/S Instore Campaign

My most recent outing as part of the Space NK instore campaign... #BeautyIntelligence

                        

                            

      

                            

      

AN AUDIENCE WITH PRINCESS JULIA COMING SOON...

The Glory presents

 

‘An Audience with Princess Julia’

'The first lady of London’s fashion scene’ 

The Guardian

‘Princess Julia has been out every night for the past 34 years’ 

Tim Banks, The Gentlewoman

 

‘A journey through London’s counter-culture scene’

 

‘An Audience with Princess Julia’ is a spoken word piece, taken from her own memoirs supported by short films and montage by her friend, DJ and similarly long-standing member of the club scene Jeffrey Hinton. Never one to dwell on the past she invites the inimitable drag and club personality of today, Jacqui Potato to create a performance inspired by her life and with a special guest to join her in conversation, ‘An Audience With Princess Julia’ is an inclusive, celebratory reminiscence of London’s glorious counter-culture tradition bought right up to date by it’s most enduring and much loved star.

 

Princess Julia would never boast to having seen ‘it all’ but she certainly has seen a lot in her very colourful life as a central figure on London’s underground club and fashion scene. From Punk in the mid 70’s to the New Romantics, Leigh Bowery’s club Taboo in the mid 80’s, The Blitz and through the rave scene of the 90’s to the present day. She remains the constant in a sea of change. Known as much for her own inspiring, flawless looks which themselves document the fashions of the day as for her music from her career as a DJ, her support for emerging creative talents, her work as a fashion and music journalist and for the force of her sheer personality alone; Princess Julia is uniquely placed to comment on how the city’s night-life has changed both aesthetically and musically and how it influenced the city’s wider culture and beyond.

 

Written and performed by Princess Julia

Film by Jeffrey Hinton

Directed by Jonny Woo

Set Design by Gary Card

Guest Performance from Jacqui Potato

Princess Julia’s wardrobe by Ed Marler and Ryan Lo

Writing Assistant Polly Rappaport

Art work supplied by Simon Nicholas Gray

 

Facebook event link https://www.facebook.com/events/1701432820090951/

Ticket link http://www.ticketweb.co.uk/search/?keyword=AN+AUDIENCE+WITH+PRINCESS+JULIA